If you need to make more cuts then shown here that is ok. Make sure you have a fresh blade in your razor knife. Its easier to cut a bit more if you need to but if you already cut too much, its too late. Pocket cuts NOW IS THE TIME TO BE SUPER-CAREFUL. The glue is workable for about 5 minutes so no need for any additional glue unless the felt is not sticking. If you don't get it exactly right, pull it off, restretch and reapply. The idea is to have the glued part of the felt meet the glued edge of the slate. Allow to dry for about 3 minutes then pull snug and apply. Now spray glue about 6" wide on the felt where you determined it will match the slate edge when stretched. Flip the felt over so it is out of the way. If using glue, pull the felt snug and determine about where the felt will match up with the edge of the slate. Then go to the other end, pull the felt snug and staple. It is not necessary to have any adhesion under the slate except in the pocket areas. If you get some on the top of the slate that is ok. When using glue you want the cloth to adhere to the edge of the slate. Try to keep glue off your fingers also as you will surely get it on the playing surface and its a pain to get off. Use some old newspapers or cardboard to keep overspray from getting on the playing surface. If using spray glue, be aware of overspray. DO NOT TRIM any excess felt until all 4 sides of the table are done. DO NOT STAPLE or GLUE in the 6 pocket cut outs at this time. If you can use a stapler then just follow along and use staples instead. In the pictures below, application is shown using glue (contact glue, 3M #77). By using your hands you can feel for any problems with the slate so they can be fixed before applying the bedcloth. Now use your hands and clean the slate again. Use a damp cloth to clean the slate of any dust, dirt or debris. Any imperfections you dont fix now will be noticeable once the felt is applied. DONT pull too tight or you will pull the felt out of the featherstrip channel.īefore you do anything, make sure the slate is screwed down, the table is level and you have applied filler to the slate seams and any holes or gouges in the playing area of the slate. Make sure you read the instructions on the previous page so you know which rail end to start with especially for the 2 end rails. Now flip the rail over to start stapling the bottom. Anything that gets in between the felt and rail rubber will create bumps on the finished rail. Make sure there are no felt pieces or lint. Brush the rubber and felt by hand to clean any dirt or debris. Make sure the top looks good and flush before starting to staple the bottom. Note here which part of the cloth is being cut - which is the excess closest to the rubber part of the rail. Be careful with wood featherstrips as they like to break.īe VERY careful at this point. If it doesnt come out right, pull the featherstrip and start over. Once pressed into the channel it should be flush with the top of the rail. The featherstrip holds the felt on the top of the rail. Use a seam roller with flexible plastic featherstrip. Use a pounding or flat block with a wooden featherstrip. Start working the featherstrip into the channel by hand. Take the sticker off when done with the rail. Make sure the "TOP" sticker is face down at this point so when you turn the cloth over to staple it will then be face up. Make sure the featherstrip channel is cleaned out. * Don't get confused with the words "cloth" and "felt", they mean the same thing. The part covered by the felt.įeatherstrip - a wood or plastic strip that holds the felt to the top of the rail. Rail rubber or Rail cushion - what the ball bounces off.
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